Q. What would I need and how to stay out of site? I have list my job and I need advice on how to camp all year. trying to save $by doing this.
Answer
I've seen the best tents money can buy blown into the night off mountains.
There are rags of those that were torn apart when ground placement held
on some of my uphill climb. I've had a tent in-hand drag me over icy stone.
I suggest a mid-level tent like Coleman, cheap, well-made. Dome with rain
fly, window flaps, with zippered mesh bug protection and portal closures.
You absolutely must apply seam sealant on all exposed interior stitching.
Stand tent turned inside out to seam seal if possible as you can't sleep
with the fire hazard and toxic odor. When dry sealant is your best friend.
Avoid fouling zipper teeth with sealant. Have extra sealer for repair. Duct
tape also for short-term patching; cold isn't duct tape friendly. Two areas are
likely to tear first: 1. Tent floor. Tent should be on a hillside but level, with
tarp under floor, and layers of cardboard inside tent over flooring for insulation.
Expect deterioration of floor cardboard and renew if damp or issues arise.
2. Mesh, it tears easily, and you need to respect that. You want room for
stuff. Higher tents have contain more air to warm (heat rises and bleeds fast),
there's wind resistence, so you need a shed shelter over it with sides facing
an expected weather frontage. Logs in a three side layer work and better hold
exterior tarp. It won't have to be waterproof but it must blunt wind chill / speed.
Digging into hillside requires wall support to avoid untimely burial. Log steps
with hammered pegs work. Double weather walls and roofing need vented air
space to vent moisture. Tents are designed as temporary shelter. You'd better
be filling sandbags to build better. Build around your tent. Work around the
braced exterior of stacked log grid. Focus on foot diameter logs, hand saw,
saw file, file oil, rags, hand winch, nylon sling lengths for log tow and hoist.
Tree nails. Claw hammer. Shovel. You won't have something. Find ruins
you can salvage. Dead cars to strip. You want a location with water that if
frozen you can still access. A USA hermit was arrested in 2013 and he
said that after a half-lifetime of being totally self-sufficient the only thing left
of personal property were prescription eye-glasses. Don't be a hermit. Using
Google Earth it wasn't hard to find a limestone grotto for boys in the UK to
sleep in and they were half-planet distant. Maybe you can do better in a chair.
I've seen the best tents money can buy blown into the night off mountains.
There are rags of those that were torn apart when ground placement held
on some of my uphill climb. I've had a tent in-hand drag me over icy stone.
I suggest a mid-level tent like Coleman, cheap, well-made. Dome with rain
fly, window flaps, with zippered mesh bug protection and portal closures.
You absolutely must apply seam sealant on all exposed interior stitching.
Stand tent turned inside out to seam seal if possible as you can't sleep
with the fire hazard and toxic odor. When dry sealant is your best friend.
Avoid fouling zipper teeth with sealant. Have extra sealer for repair. Duct
tape also for short-term patching; cold isn't duct tape friendly. Two areas are
likely to tear first: 1. Tent floor. Tent should be on a hillside but level, with
tarp under floor, and layers of cardboard inside tent over flooring for insulation.
Expect deterioration of floor cardboard and renew if damp or issues arise.
2. Mesh, it tears easily, and you need to respect that. You want room for
stuff. Higher tents have contain more air to warm (heat rises and bleeds fast),
there's wind resistence, so you need a shed shelter over it with sides facing
an expected weather frontage. Logs in a three side layer work and better hold
exterior tarp. It won't have to be waterproof but it must blunt wind chill / speed.
Digging into hillside requires wall support to avoid untimely burial. Log steps
with hammered pegs work. Double weather walls and roofing need vented air
space to vent moisture. Tents are designed as temporary shelter. You'd better
be filling sandbags to build better. Build around your tent. Work around the
braced exterior of stacked log grid. Focus on foot diameter logs, hand saw,
saw file, file oil, rags, hand winch, nylon sling lengths for log tow and hoist.
Tree nails. Claw hammer. Shovel. You won't have something. Find ruins
you can salvage. Dead cars to strip. You want a location with water that if
frozen you can still access. A USA hermit was arrested in 2013 and he
said that after a half-lifetime of being totally self-sufficient the only thing left
of personal property were prescription eye-glasses. Don't be a hermit. Using
Google Earth it wasn't hard to find a limestone grotto for boys in the UK to
sleep in and they were half-planet distant. Maybe you can do better in a chair.
Where can one tent camp in USA for free?
bitegrande
I want to do primitive camping (campfire, bathing in a river or pond, digging a latrine like in Boy Scout handbook) and enjoy privacy and nature. I'd prefer the warm South.
Any ideas? Thanks.
Answer
Here in Oregon, if the campsite does not have water, the site is free. These are usually 100 miles inland from the ocean. You cannot dig a toilet, but there are pit toilets or port-a-johns available.
Other than that, you will need to contact private landowners for permission to camp.
Here in Oregon, if the campsite does not have water, the site is free. These are usually 100 miles inland from the ocean. You cannot dig a toilet, but there are pit toilets or port-a-johns available.
Other than that, you will need to contact private landowners for permission to camp.
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