top rated tents for family camping image
djinvincea
Ok here's the scoop...
I want to get into hiking and camping with my wife. I currently have no gear. What should I buy? I have about $800 to work with. I am planning on camping through 3 seasons, spring, summer, and fall (a little in the winter perhaps). I am going to need a two person tent, his and hers sleeping bags, and his and hers backpacks. I am looking for gear that would take me on 2-4 day hikes. Should go with internal or external backpacks. What's the difference? Is there a good rain resistant tent within my price range? I'm thinking I would want a mummy type sleeping bag. Again, not sure though. Brand names with reasons for purchasing would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Answer
Go to www.cabelas.com and browse around, or better yet request a catalog. It's the best outdoors outfitter I've ever used. First off, since you're talking about backpacking, you need to think lightweight. Interior/Exterior just has to do with whether the frame is inside or outside the "pack" on a backpack. To decide on which type is better fo you, go to a good sporting goods store in your area and look at them/try them on. Sleeping backs should definately be the "mummy" style bags. They are around $100 each, but are very lightweight and can handle moderately cold weather (sleeping bags will have a rating in degrees to how cold it can get and you can still rely on the sleeping bag). They can also be compacted better than classic sleeping bags. Any brand in Cabela's would be a good brand, including its own brand. Also buy you and your wife sleeping pads... they are light, compact, and your back is worth it. I like the self-inflating type, but you can also get foam ones. Again any brand in Cabela's (this goes for all their products) is usually a good brand.
Tents are usually rated by seasons they can be used in (summer, 3-season, or all weather are popular ratings). Definately go for a dome-style tent rather than the boxier tents. Dome style tents are usually more sturdy, deflect water better, and are usually lighter. Also you'll want one with a good rain cover that goes close to the base of the tent, and a high waterproof rating (in mms)... 1,500mm waterproof ratings are pretty good. Also, pay attention to weight. Aluminum weighs less than fiberglass, but costs more also. A two person tent probably weighs around 15 lbs, and you and your wife can split this weight (she takes tent, you poles) or you can pack it yourself, but weight is the largest factor (besides neccesities) when hiking.
Alright, now that we have the major equipment out of the way, here are some neccessities.
-First Aid Kit and maps or knowledge of area, or GPs
-Flashlight w/extra batteries and lantern would be nice
-Good all-purpose knife/survival knife
-water purification pump AND purification pills... start out with at least 1/2 gallon of water each
-Waterproof matches AND waterproof lighter (just in case)
-Lightweight stove. Sporting good store can recommend good ones for backpacking.
-Food: lightweight, non-perishables, such as top ramen, energy bars, canned food, chocolate. Fatty foods are good to have in the woods since you will be burning a lot of calaries. They say one of the best things you can eat if your lost is butter. You may burn 3,000 or more calaries a day, so don't try to go on a diet right then. I recommend some type of powder flavoring for water... it doesn't always taste great when used with purification pills.
-Dish soap, eating utensils and backpacking pots. They usually come in a nice kit that doesn't take up much space. Look on Cabela's or at a sporting goods store.
-TOILET PAPER
-Permits. You usually have to get permits to camp in public parks/Forest Service land. You go to the closest Forestry office to pick these up. These are important if for no other reason than if you don't come back when your family expects you, they know where to start looking.
-Bear spray
-Clothes that can be layered, gloves, beanies, good hiking boots and tennis shoes if you dont mind the extra weight (for camp).
Recommended Supplies:
-Cell phone or handheld CB at least
-Camera (for obvious reasons)
-Rope(hang your food away from camp so predators dont get into it).
-Insect repellant/sunblock
There's probably more that I am missing, but those are the most important. The most important thing to do when going camping is to tell at least two responsible people you know where you're going, and give them a timeframe for coming back. Also I recommend you both take a First Aid Course... they are usually free and something could go wrong quickly (although unlikely) in the forests... snake bite, broken leg, heat stroke, hyperthermia, bear attack, drinking bad water (always purify or boil for five minutes... & retrieve from running water source. If impossible to purify, find area where water is "falling"... it's usually cleanest there).
I'm not trying to scare you away and you guys will probably have a blast, but definately be prepared.
Go to www.cabelas.com and browse around, or better yet request a catalog. It's the best outdoors outfitter I've ever used. First off, since you're talking about backpacking, you need to think lightweight. Interior/Exterior just has to do with whether the frame is inside or outside the "pack" on a backpack. To decide on which type is better fo you, go to a good sporting goods store in your area and look at them/try them on. Sleeping backs should definately be the "mummy" style bags. They are around $100 each, but are very lightweight and can handle moderately cold weather (sleeping bags will have a rating in degrees to how cold it can get and you can still rely on the sleeping bag). They can also be compacted better than classic sleeping bags. Any brand in Cabela's would be a good brand, including its own brand. Also buy you and your wife sleeping pads... they are light, compact, and your back is worth it. I like the self-inflating type, but you can also get foam ones. Again any brand in Cabela's (this goes for all their products) is usually a good brand.
Tents are usually rated by seasons they can be used in (summer, 3-season, or all weather are popular ratings). Definately go for a dome-style tent rather than the boxier tents. Dome style tents are usually more sturdy, deflect water better, and are usually lighter. Also you'll want one with a good rain cover that goes close to the base of the tent, and a high waterproof rating (in mms)... 1,500mm waterproof ratings are pretty good. Also, pay attention to weight. Aluminum weighs less than fiberglass, but costs more also. A two person tent probably weighs around 15 lbs, and you and your wife can split this weight (she takes tent, you poles) or you can pack it yourself, but weight is the largest factor (besides neccesities) when hiking.
Alright, now that we have the major equipment out of the way, here are some neccessities.
-First Aid Kit and maps or knowledge of area, or GPs
-Flashlight w/extra batteries and lantern would be nice
-Good all-purpose knife/survival knife
-water purification pump AND purification pills... start out with at least 1/2 gallon of water each
-Waterproof matches AND waterproof lighter (just in case)
-Lightweight stove. Sporting good store can recommend good ones for backpacking.
-Food: lightweight, non-perishables, such as top ramen, energy bars, canned food, chocolate. Fatty foods are good to have in the woods since you will be burning a lot of calaries. They say one of the best things you can eat if your lost is butter. You may burn 3,000 or more calaries a day, so don't try to go on a diet right then. I recommend some type of powder flavoring for water... it doesn't always taste great when used with purification pills.
-Dish soap, eating utensils and backpacking pots. They usually come in a nice kit that doesn't take up much space. Look on Cabela's or at a sporting goods store.
-TOILET PAPER
-Permits. You usually have to get permits to camp in public parks/Forest Service land. You go to the closest Forestry office to pick these up. These are important if for no other reason than if you don't come back when your family expects you, they know where to start looking.
-Bear spray
-Clothes that can be layered, gloves, beanies, good hiking boots and tennis shoes if you dont mind the extra weight (for camp).
Recommended Supplies:
-Cell phone or handheld CB at least
-Camera (for obvious reasons)
-Rope(hang your food away from camp so predators dont get into it).
-Insect repellant/sunblock
There's probably more that I am missing, but those are the most important. The most important thing to do when going camping is to tell at least two responsible people you know where you're going, and give them a timeframe for coming back. Also I recommend you both take a First Aid Course... they are usually free and something could go wrong quickly (although unlikely) in the forests... snake bite, broken leg, heat stroke, hyperthermia, bear attack, drinking bad water (always purify or boil for five minutes... & retrieve from running water source. If impossible to purify, find area where water is "falling"... it's usually cleanest there).
I'm not trying to scare you away and you guys will probably have a blast, but definately be prepared.
What do you think will happen to the Midwest if the New Madrid Fault does the earthquake thing?
NANCY K
I have read stuff about what happened in 1811 till 1812, and it wasn't just one big quake, it was over and over, almost daily!! It sounds like the San Andreas fault would be a tea party compared to going through what happened to them. There just wasn't the dense population to react to it like there was in San Francisco, etc. It was in Missouri and rang church bells in Boston! It created Realfoot Lake. What would happen now ?
Answer
It could be a major disaster. The USGS rates the hazard in this area as high as that of the San Andreas fault zone on the west coast.
http://pubs.usgs.gov/fs/fs-131-02/fs-131...
The current probability of a seismic event the magnitude of the 1811 quake is 7-10% within 50 years, and for a smaller quake of 6.0 is 25-40%.
I know firsthand that much of the construction in this region is un-reinforced or partially reinforced masonry. Larger cites such as Memphis and St. Louis have lots of older multistory masonry buildings that are vulnerable in a large quake. Many of the grade schools and high schools are also concrete-block construction and were built before it was common to pour reinforcing concrete and steel into the buildings. As far as I know there have been no significant efforts to force buildings to be retrofitted as Los Angeles did in the 1980's.
I can only hope that the nearby states have made efforts to retrofit bridges, and that the Federal DOT has retrofitted the I-55 bridge, as well as those in St. Louis and Memphis.
I do know that at one time school districts in Illinois were required to practice earth quake drills and put in outside storage of emergency supplies and water. I have heard that since then they have abandoned this effort.
If you live in the area (or any other earthquake prone area) there are some easy things you can do to make your home more earthquake proof:
1. Find out if your homeowner's insurance covers earthquakes.
2. Be familiar with how to turn off your natural gas, water, and electric utilities. Consider installing an "earthquake valve" on your natural gas line. This type of valve shuts off automatically if there is shaking. It could prevent your house from burning down. Here are a few:
http://www.earthquakestore.com/gas_shut_...
3. Brace your water heater with at least two metal straps tied to a major wood stud or anchored to a concrete wall. The straps should be anchored with a wide angle extending laterally about two feet on each side of the water heater, if possible.
4. Install child-proof type latches on your overhead kitchen cabinets and other cabinets where things might fall out.
5. Anchor the top of tall furniture to a wall using a strap and anchor, or an angle bracket secured to a stud in the wall. Hanging pictures should be hung from hooks secured into studs.
Move chandeliers, tall bookshelves, and large mirrors away from beds. By the time a sleeping occupant has realized the earthquake is happening the hazard may have already fallen on the bed.
6. If you have an antenna attached to a masonry chimney, move it. Masonry chimneys should be checked and tuck-pointed if the mortar has begun to deteriorate. Be aware that masonry chimneys are very likely to shake apart in an earthquake.
Preparedness:
1. Be prepared to live without power and water for at least 72 hours. The water heater and toilet tank will supply up to 45 gallons of water if they are not damaged. Having a water purifying filter on hand is always a good idea. These camping type filters are the ones I recommend but either water purification tablets or those household water filtering kits are suitable:
http://www.rei.com/online/store/search?n...
2. Have a battery operated radio on hand, or even one of those self-powering crank units.
3. Flashlights and batteries are essential.
4. Don't expect the telephone, either land or cellular to work. If they are working, avoid using them except for emergencies as they will be overloaded.
5. Be prepared to live outdoors, preferably in a tent while there is risk of an aftershock. If your house is damaged seriously it may not be safe to re-enter.
6. Have a fire extinguisher and a first aid kit on hand.
7. Have a family plan, and plan ahead who will be responsible for helping elderly or children out of the house and the route. Know your neighborhood and the skills of your neighbors. If there are doctors or other emergency personnel in the area know how to contact them. If your family is spread out, have someone out of the area for everyone to check in with. Long distance calls will be easier than local calls.
8. Make some plans for your pets. Many pets get confused during earthquakes and get lost.
9. Keep a small camp stove handy, or at least some canned food and a manual can opener. Eat the food in your refrigerator first, then the food in the freezer. An unopened freezer will last about 3 days.
10. Apply the same concepts to your workplace. Know how you will contact the rest of your family if at work. Many emergency personnel have their entire family carry a small CB-radio because they realize they would not be able to function properly if they were uncertain about the status of their family.
11. Stay off the roads unless it is an emergency. Try to leave roads open for emergency services like ambulances and fire trucks.
If you want to read more about earthquake preparation buy or check out a copy of this book:
Yanev, Peter I. , 1991, Peace of Mind in Earthquake Country: How to Save Your Home and Life. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. 218 pp. ISBN: 0877017719
(at this moment there are 18 copies available used on Amazon.com starting at $4.25. I am sure other booksellers will have this book as well)
It could be a major disaster. The USGS rates the hazard in this area as high as that of the San Andreas fault zone on the west coast.
http://pubs.usgs.gov/fs/fs-131-02/fs-131...
The current probability of a seismic event the magnitude of the 1811 quake is 7-10% within 50 years, and for a smaller quake of 6.0 is 25-40%.
I know firsthand that much of the construction in this region is un-reinforced or partially reinforced masonry. Larger cites such as Memphis and St. Louis have lots of older multistory masonry buildings that are vulnerable in a large quake. Many of the grade schools and high schools are also concrete-block construction and were built before it was common to pour reinforcing concrete and steel into the buildings. As far as I know there have been no significant efforts to force buildings to be retrofitted as Los Angeles did in the 1980's.
I can only hope that the nearby states have made efforts to retrofit bridges, and that the Federal DOT has retrofitted the I-55 bridge, as well as those in St. Louis and Memphis.
I do know that at one time school districts in Illinois were required to practice earth quake drills and put in outside storage of emergency supplies and water. I have heard that since then they have abandoned this effort.
If you live in the area (or any other earthquake prone area) there are some easy things you can do to make your home more earthquake proof:
1. Find out if your homeowner's insurance covers earthquakes.
2. Be familiar with how to turn off your natural gas, water, and electric utilities. Consider installing an "earthquake valve" on your natural gas line. This type of valve shuts off automatically if there is shaking. It could prevent your house from burning down. Here are a few:
http://www.earthquakestore.com/gas_shut_...
3. Brace your water heater with at least two metal straps tied to a major wood stud or anchored to a concrete wall. The straps should be anchored with a wide angle extending laterally about two feet on each side of the water heater, if possible.
4. Install child-proof type latches on your overhead kitchen cabinets and other cabinets where things might fall out.
5. Anchor the top of tall furniture to a wall using a strap and anchor, or an angle bracket secured to a stud in the wall. Hanging pictures should be hung from hooks secured into studs.
Move chandeliers, tall bookshelves, and large mirrors away from beds. By the time a sleeping occupant has realized the earthquake is happening the hazard may have already fallen on the bed.
6. If you have an antenna attached to a masonry chimney, move it. Masonry chimneys should be checked and tuck-pointed if the mortar has begun to deteriorate. Be aware that masonry chimneys are very likely to shake apart in an earthquake.
Preparedness:
1. Be prepared to live without power and water for at least 72 hours. The water heater and toilet tank will supply up to 45 gallons of water if they are not damaged. Having a water purifying filter on hand is always a good idea. These camping type filters are the ones I recommend but either water purification tablets or those household water filtering kits are suitable:
http://www.rei.com/online/store/search?n...
2. Have a battery operated radio on hand, or even one of those self-powering crank units.
3. Flashlights and batteries are essential.
4. Don't expect the telephone, either land or cellular to work. If they are working, avoid using them except for emergencies as they will be overloaded.
5. Be prepared to live outdoors, preferably in a tent while there is risk of an aftershock. If your house is damaged seriously it may not be safe to re-enter.
6. Have a fire extinguisher and a first aid kit on hand.
7. Have a family plan, and plan ahead who will be responsible for helping elderly or children out of the house and the route. Know your neighborhood and the skills of your neighbors. If there are doctors or other emergency personnel in the area know how to contact them. If your family is spread out, have someone out of the area for everyone to check in with. Long distance calls will be easier than local calls.
8. Make some plans for your pets. Many pets get confused during earthquakes and get lost.
9. Keep a small camp stove handy, or at least some canned food and a manual can opener. Eat the food in your refrigerator first, then the food in the freezer. An unopened freezer will last about 3 days.
10. Apply the same concepts to your workplace. Know how you will contact the rest of your family if at work. Many emergency personnel have their entire family carry a small CB-radio because they realize they would not be able to function properly if they were uncertain about the status of their family.
11. Stay off the roads unless it is an emergency. Try to leave roads open for emergency services like ambulances and fire trucks.
If you want to read more about earthquake preparation buy or check out a copy of this book:
Yanev, Peter I. , 1991, Peace of Mind in Earthquake Country: How to Save Your Home and Life. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. 218 pp. ISBN: 0877017719
(at this moment there are 18 copies available used on Amazon.com starting at $4.25. I am sure other booksellers will have this book as well)
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